The Northern Dodecanese: Kos to Patmos

Boarding is mid-afternoon. Once provisioned and briefed, there is time to make a short shakedown sail around the southern tip of Kos to Kamari Bay, a wide, well-sheltered anchorage beneath the clifftop village of Kefalos, protected from the Meltemi and calm enough to sleep well. Anchor north of the quay in 5 metres over sand, or go stern-to if space allows. There are a handful of tavernas on the waterfront. The small volcanic islet of Kastri sits in the entrance to the bay with a tiny whitewashed church on its rocks, a quietly spectacular first evening. Nobody needs a long passage on Saturday.

Skipper’s note: Do the full provisioning shop in Kos before departure. Good supermarkets in Kos town. After Leros, proper provisioning stops disappear. Fuel and water at Kos Marina before you leave.

The first proper sailing day. Head north from Kamari, round the western tip of Kos and cross the strait to Kalymnos, the sponge-diving capital of Greece, where shops selling natural sponge still line the harbour at Pothia. The destination today is not Pothia but Vathys on the island’s eastern coast, a long, narrow inlet that cuts deep into the hillside like a fjord, with citrus groves of oranges and lemons farmed by the same families for generations running right down to the water. The depth drops from 20 metres at the entrance to nothing, the colour changes from deep blue to pale green, and it is unlike any other anchorage in the Dodecanese. Moor stern-to on the small quay or anchor at the head of the inlet. Arrive before midday in peak season as it fills quickly. There is a small taverna at the water’s edge.

Skipper’s note: The Kos-Kalymnos strait can kick up a short, steep chop against the Meltemi. If the inlet quay at Vathys is full, Emborios Bay on Kalymnos’s west coast is a well-regarded alternative, quiet, with a small village and a spectacular sunset over the hill.

Sail north to Leros, an island that most charters pass through without pausing. They are missing something. The Italians administered these islands between 1912 and 1943 and left behind art deco harbour buildings, wide promenades and a quiet faded elegance that feels unlike anywhere else in Greece. Moor in Panteli on the southeast coast, a small fishing village where restaurants put their tables directly on the beach and the Byzantine castle of Pandeli watches over the bay from the hill above. Walk up to the castle in the evening. The view back over the harbour and across to Kalymnos is worth every step.

Skipper’s note: Lakki, on Leros’s west coast, is the main provisioning stop on this entire route with fuel, water and the best-stocked supermarket north of Kalymnos. A brief diversion here before heading to Panteli is strongly recommended. After Leros, opportunities become limited.

A short hop north to Lipsi, an island of around 700 people that has, against the odds, resisted becoming a tourist destination. The harbour is whitewashed and unhurried. The bakery runs out before midday. Nobody seems concerned. Moor in the main harbour or anchor in Katsadia Bay on the southern coast, a wide sheltered cove with a shingle and sand beach, a taverna, and water clear enough to see the anchor in 4 metres. In the afternoon, if conditions allow, take the boat round to Platis Gialos on the northwest coast: a turquoise bay with a sandy bottom, good holding in 4-5 metres, a small family taverna open in season, and views across to Arki. It is described by sailors who have anchored there as one of the most beautiful bays in the Aegean. Watch for fishing nets strung across the bay at dawn.

Skipper’s note: Fuel is available on the Lipsi town quay from midday. Fill up here as Arki has no fuel, no water on the quay, and no ATM. Bring cash and everything you need before leaving.

The shortest passage of the week and the one that earns its place most. Arki is a scattering of rocky islets and coves with a permanent population of around forty people, most occupied with fishing or running one of the island’s four tavernas. Port Augusta, the main anchorage on the southwest side, is a narrow dog-leg inlet, well-protected from all winds, with a quay for around ten yachts and a small square behind it where the tavernas sit under trees. Trypas and Nikolas both serve whatever was caught that morning. In peak August the quay fills by mid-afternoon; if it does, the bays of Steno and Glipapas just south offer equally good overnight anchorage with the added benefit of silence.

The afternoon belongs to Tiganakia, a group of tiny islets on the south side of Arki where a channel of electric-blue water over a white sandy bottom sits between the rocks. It is one of the most visually arresting spots in the Dodecanese and accessible only by boat. Anchor for lunch and swimming as it is too exposed for overnight. Return to Port Augusta or Steno for the evening.

Alternatively, take the dinghy across to the neighbouring islet of Marathos. Pandelis taverna has laid mooring buoys, bakes bread every morning and grows much of what it cooks. The fish arrives within hours of being caught. It is as close to the source as lunch gets.

Skipper’s note: No ATM, no pharmacy, no fuel on Arki. Carry cash and everything you need from Lipsi.

The final island of the week and the best. Patmos is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the place where Saint John the Theologian wrote the Book of Revelation in a hillside cave in 95 AD. The Monastery of Saint John has stood above the island’s white hilltop capital, Chora, since the eleventh century. None of this is performed for tourists. Patmos takes its history seriously and the island carries a gravity and stillness that is genuinely unlike anywhere else in the Aegean.

Moor or anchor at Skala, the main port, which has provisioning, water and fuel. Take a scooter or the local bus up to Chora in the afternoon. The monastery and the Cave of the Apocalypse are both on the hill, ten minutes apart. Dinner in Chora itself on the village square.

For the overnight anchorage, Grikos Bay sits 3Nm south of Skala, quieter, with good holding in sand and natural protection from the north. From Grikos, Psili Ammos is a short dinghy ride away. The finest beach on Patmos, with fine gold sand, turquoise water and a small family taverna, it is reachable only by sea or a 30-minute hike. Go early, before the water taxis arrive from Skala.

Skipper’s note: Patmos justifies the full day. Use it. Chora in the morning before the day boats arrive, Psili Ammos in the afternoon. Eat at Benetos on the south coast at Sapsila, widely considered one of the finest restaurants in the Dodecanese, set in a garden above the sea. Book ahead.

Leave at first light. The Meltemi, if it has been running through the week, will be on or behind the beam the whole way south. A reefed main, a decent pace, and this is one of the great sailing days in the Aegean: fast, warm, the islands dropping away behind you one by one. Kalymnos appears to port around midday. There is time for a final swim stop off Pserimos, the small island between Kalymnos and Kos, before the last few miles back to the marina. Arrive by early evening. Hand back the boat in good shape.

Skipper’s note: Forty-six miles is a real passage. Leave by 0700. If the Meltemi is forecast above 25 knots, reef early and sail conservatively as the passage is fast enough without pushing it. If the wind is light or absent, motor-sail and enjoy it. Either way, do not leave late.

A Note on the Meltemi

The Meltemi is a dry northerly wind that dominates the Aegean from late June through August, typically 15-25 knots and occasionally stronger. On this itinerary, the first half of the week is largely upwind with short legs, sheltered anchorages and conditions manageable in all but the strongest winds. The second half benefits from it entirely. May, June and September are our preferred months for this route: the wind is lighter, the anchorages are quieter, and Arki in particular is a different island before the August crowds arrive.

Practical Details

Base port: Kos Marina (KGS, direct flights from most UK airports throughout the season)

Charter week: Saturday afternoon departure, Friday evening return

Provisioning: Full shop in Kos before departure. Top up fuel and water at Leros (Lakki) as this is the last guaranteed stop. Lipsi has fuel at the quay from midday. Arki has nothing. Patmos (Skala) has fuel, water and good provisioning for the return passage.

Yacht type: Monohull 38-48ft or equivalent catamaran. Quays at Arki and Lipsi are modest, and a shorter waterline makes berthing easier at both.

Skill level: Intermediate to experienced. Short daily legs, but the Meltemi demands respect in July and August, and the Friday return is a proper offshore passage. Crews comfortable anchoring independently and managing without marina infrastructure will get the most from this route.

Permits: Greek cruising licence (TEPAI) required, arranged as part of the booking process.